What would you say if I suggested that the future of the Australian wine industry may look a bit like ansonica, assyrtiko, pecorino, mencia, picpoul, saperavi, verdicchio, vermentino, Albarino, Nero d’Avola or Teroldego to name a few?
After attending the Australian Alternative Varieties Wine Show (AAVWS)in Mildura recently and scratching the surface a little, I discovered that these alternative varieties are making some big ripples.
An extraordinary set of numbers represented the 2024 edition of the wine show: 733 wines were judged from 212 exhibitors showcasing 64 diverse wine regions across the country.
Speaking at the awards lunch, it was clear that the future of Australian wine was in the room. Those present were invested in solutions to see the wine landscape forge ahead despite the many obstacles in its way.
The answers for diversity, growth, disease resistance, water conservation and adaptation to climate change sat among us.
One of the many highlights was the ‘Talk and Taste’ session, where benchmark Australian examples of alternate varieties were tasted alongside those from across the world. The dialogue and intrigue over a four-hour period were nothing short of fascinating.
Things went further with discussions on how AI can be used to plot the flavour profile of wines, leading to greater consistency from vintage to vintage for winemakers.
And then there were conversations about PIWI varieties, which are resistant to fungus and disease. As any winemaker would attest, the mere mention of disease pressure will see them buckle at the knees. But with some astute research and the application of science, this issue may slowly be eroded.
The Australian wine landscape has been generally tied to eight main varieties, namely shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, pinot noir, chardonnay, semillon, sauvignon blanc and riesling, but as the climate changes and access to water adds another complexity, the light has been shone on a new breed to tempt wine lovers.
Varieties from Mediterranean climates have been proven to suit the Australian landscape. Take fiano as an example. Unknown by many a decade ago, yet now it is more than familiar to many wine lovers. Not surprisingly, it was the largest class of wines to be judged at the AAVWS, with 82 wines presented.
Those keen to explore the alternate landscape would be thrilled to know that there are more than 1000 varieties in Italy alone, many of which have never hit these shores. But through prudent selection and a lot of patience, there is a fabulous momentum building to change the shape and future of what we drink in Australia.
Enter the Chalmers family from Merbein, just outside Mildura. Passionate and humble, for a number of years this family has been working tirelessly in their vineyards and nursery to introduce varieties suitable for the Australian climate.
And that process is not as clean-cut as you may have thought.
An elegant medium bodied Sicilian red wine variety Nerello Mascalese caught the eye of the Chalmers family and they commenced work to import cuttings in 2009.
Amid a mountain of paperwork over many years to secure clean cuttings, the sticks finally landed in Melbourne in 2019 and then faced strict quarantine regulations, biosecurity testing and phytosanitary certification. Of all the cuttings imported, only one (one!) was nurtured and grown out by quarantine staff. Time passes ever so slowly. The Chalmers finally received that one vine in 2022, which they guarded with their lives.
Buds were taken from this one vine, grafted and potted in the greenhouse.
So, from the formative days in 2009, a row of Nerello Mascalese will be planted in the Chalmer’s nursery vineyard in 2025, with orders already coming in from wineries across Australia to secure cuttings for the years to come.
The timeline varies on the quality of the material. Fiano, for example, was imported by the Chalmers in 2002 and the first wine was produced in 2005.
Overall, it’s not a simple process, given the bureaucracy, but with careful selection, the landscape of Australian wine will continue to evolve.
Keen to expand your horizons? Seafood lovers will be in raptures with Golden Grove Estate’s vermentino and Jim Barry’s assyrtiko.
Seeking vibrant and energetic white wines? Check out Tempus Two’s ansonica and the new Chalmers’ falanghina. Oliver’s Taranga has also released a super impressive expression of falanghina that was fermented in amphorae.
For red wine devotees, consider the juicy, slinky and low tannin appeal of Oliver’s Taranga mencia, the beautifully perfumed and super dark saperavi from Arila Gardens or the rich and supple montepulciano from the After Five Wine Co.
Sure, chardonnay, riesling, cabernet and shiraz have a presence in every region, but the alternative landscape is pushing boundaries and building a thrilling momentum.
The passion of the people who make this wine show tick and the hive of activity in the background to expand the wine varieties available is infectious.
And if Aldi is good different, the AAVWS and everything it stands for is alternatively awesome.
Steve Leszcynski is a wine writer, author, wine dinner host and MC. Apart from writing for his website QwineReviews.com, Steve co-authored a book, Grenache – Barossa Grown and also makes contributions to Halliday Wine Companion magazine, Vinomofo, Wine Business Magazine and Grapegrower & Winemaker magazine.