Wine tasting hits differently when you can do it pedalling on two wheels. Traversing the landscape at your own leisure on the Clare Valley riesling trail is an experience like no other.
Stretching 33 kilometres through picturesque vistas, rolling hills, manicured vineyards and sections of eye-opening geology evident from carved-out rail corridors, exploring the region on two wheels is unique and fabulously appealing.
The foresight of local winemakers Tony Brady and Evan Hiscock laid the foundations for the trail that spans from Auburn in the south to Barinia in the north.
With the final train rolling off the tracks in 1984, the disused tracks were removed in 1989. It wasn’t until 1994 that the completed gravel track was added to the Clare Valley landscape, bolstering tourism.
Just shy of a two-hour drive north from Adelaide airport, the number of cellar doors and eateries that are accessible from the trail only adds further reason to jump on a bike. And so I did.
I picked up a fat-wheeled E-Rover bike from Scoot The Valley (scootthevalley.com). My trusty steed was not only immensely comfortable, but its long-life battery powered along during those lethargic moments as I meandered uphill. All this at the push of a button – winning! With a complimentary bottle of water, a map of the trail and my helmet clipped on, I was away.
Well signposted, there are a few designated loops to take off the main track, or you can make your own way around as I did.
Still in town and just up the road, the first stop was Mr Mick. With a diverse range of wines and tasting options, there is a great restaurant on site too, not to mention the outdoor area hosts local musicians on weekends. I stayed here a little longer than anticipated, but that’s the beauty of the rail trail. You aren’t held to account by the clock, unlike being on a tour bus.
Back on the bike and on to Tim Adams Wines – a stone’s throw further down the track. Family-owned and operated, visitors can sit on the deck and explore the back vintage tasting, which I highly recommend.
Get the legs moving and turn off the main track to wind up a gentle hill to Sevenhill Cellars, the first winery built in the Clare Valley. Stemming back to 1851, it is a property with a distinct history that is treasured by the Australian wine industry. It is home to the famed St Aloysius’ Church and Jesuit community. At the base of the property, explore the old Weikert Cottage, which was constructed in 1865.
The cottage itself was destroyed during the Ash Wednesday bushfires in 1983, but has been lovingly restored to its partial former glory. Placards detail the history of those early days.
Head up the hill and relax under the shady trees in the garden, embracing the history. Up until recently, all wines were made by Jesuit priest Father John May.
Time for one more? Spin around and head back to Shut the Gate Wines, which is 400 metres off the track and located on Main North Road. Perch yourself at the bar, recline in the lounge or kick back in the garden to taste an array of wines from this boutique producer. And why not grab some local produce to savour later from the well-appointed grocery selection?
If time is on your side and you are wined-out, the new Clare Valley Distillery is a worthy final stop for a G&T. The Watervale 75 gin cocktail was calling me and it was hard to resist. With a splash of sparkling riesling, orange liqueur and candied lemon zest, it was the perfect end to the day.
Hoping to buy some wine on your journey? No worries. The cellar doors are happy to post your wine to your home, or they can hold it for you to pick up when you are back in your vehicle. Some cellar doors will even deliver to your Clare Valley accommodation.
While in the region, make an appointment at Limefinger. Producing only two wines, Neil Pike uses all his experience and knowledge of the region to deliver exceptional takes on Watervale Riesling and Polish Hill River Riesling. You won’t regret it.
Dropping by the contemporary O’Leary Walker Wines cellar door will appease the eye with its stunning aspect perched atop a hill and a well-considered kids’ tasting menu to keep young ones occupied while you enjoy an array of quality sips.
A classic country pub is hard to beat and a drink or casual meal at the Sevenhill Hotel should be high on the agenda. To elevate the experience, book a table to eat in the cellar. Sure, the Watervale Hotel is schmick with its head-turning menu, but it’s hard to beat old-school charm.
And if you can’t resist one more wine tasting, walk 50 metres down the road from the pub to Wykari of Clare. Former primary school principal turned vigneron Peter Shearer has curated a cute cellar door with a brace of well-priced wines that punch well above their price point. The Single Vineyard Shiraz is a steal for $28.
Steve Leszczynski is a wine writer, author, wine dinner host and MC. Apart from writing for his website QwineReviews.com, Steve co-authored a book, Grenache – Barossa Grown and also makes contributions to Halliday Wine Companion magazine, Vinomofo, Wine Business Magazine and Grapegrower & Winemaker magazine.