Champagne is the world’s favourite wine for celebrating. It epitomises the French spirit of ‘joie de vivre’, from the happy popping sound of the cork to the effervescent rising line of bubbles. It’s fireworks in a flute!
For the uncertain, champagne is an appellation that describes its geographic origin, so it comes only from that coveted region of France. It’s a renowned, highly protected brand name.
For lovers and collectors of “fizz”, as local Champenois people fondly call it, the festive season presents the perfect opportunity to try something fresh and new or to share a special bottle. Champagne is a revered place and a prized sparkling, and the mere mention of its name implies it is time to make merry. Santé!
With Christmas and seasonal festivities in mind, summer is the exciting time when many stores stock a wider range of champagne, especially vintages, and display pretty gift boxes that offer great value. It’s not unusual to see big brand names like G.H. Mumm and Perrier-Jouët giving away good quality glasses or a carry bag plus a bottle at the same price as, or even less than, the bottle alone!
It’s a whimsical marketing ploy to tempt you away from your usual sparkling to the top shelf, and it’s my favourite time to stockpile signature-style Art Nouveau painted stemware, collectible vintages, or richly ruby-coloured rosés that will ideally pair with roast meats and salmon on the barbecue or Christmas table.
If asked to recommend champagnes for your gatherings of friends and family, I’d suggest a few crowd-pleasers for aperitifs, others for matching to your menu, and some special drops for relaxing after dinner when the games begin or the time for deeply contemplative conversations arrives.
Not all champagne tastes the same, and vintages vary from year to year, so it’s an endless challenge to find your favourites and make your own adventure!
Summer is also my birthday season, so I have extra incentive to fill the wine fridge. If you drop by my house for some pop, my go-to champagnes for pre-dinner drinks or socialising include well-rounded G.H. Mumm Cordon Rouge NV, recognisable by its red ribbon; Taittinger NV for a dry finish; Bollinger NV for powerful flavour; or Louis Roederer Collection NV because it’s the epitome of luscious, aromatic and smooth champagne that people imagine when they hear that unmistakable cork.
I have visited these Houses and met the makers and families behind them, and each is committed to a characteristic style and taste for consistent excellence. If you like to know what you’re getting, these champagnes are reliably, recognisably distinct.
If you’re open to surprises or love to cook and pair wine with your menu, then artisanal grower champagnes offer a huge range from dry to sweet wines to discover. Grower champagnes are made by the estate that owns the vineyards where the grapes are grown. There are about 19,000 independent growers in the region and some 5000 make wine.
Wander further down the aisle and try something aromatic like AR LeNoble Brut NV, Albert Le Brun NV Grand Cru, or the complex champagnes of Laherte Frères, now a seventh-generation winemaking family.
Their biodynamically grown Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature NV represents an increasingly popular direction for champagnes, preferred for its zero use of sugar, minimal intervention and expressive zestiness. It’s champagne in its true form, crafted by its environment and not for conformity.
The Champagne region often endures severe weather throughout the year, from snow to baking heat, and is necessarily pioneering ways to address climate change impacts on vineyards, so this new winemaking style reflects the philosophy of respecting and sustaining the vines, soil and biodiversity.
My tip for food pairing is to avoid strong, lingering flavours that coat the mouth, like chilli and garlic, or they’ll overpower the champagne. Food needn’t be fancy either – some matches championed by major Houses include popcorn, truffled fries, Wagyu beef burgers on brioche buns, bitter chocolate, and even mac and cheese. Champagne will partner well with standard party fare like salted nuts, stone fruits, seafood, roasted meats and poultry, and most definitely your plum pudding. Christmas cake, trifle and stewed or glacé fruit pair perfectly with vintage champagnes like rich, layered Dom Pérignon, and as it’s a hard act to follow, it’s a brilliant champagne to finish a memorable meal.
You could also search the Houses’ websites for recipes by Michelin chefs who push boundaries by matching champagne with spicy shiitakes, beetroot puree and curries – the world is bigger than just an oyster when it comes to champagne. However you choose to fill your flute, do it with joy. I wish you a summer of sensational bubbles, company and cheer.
Rebecca Grisman is a journalist and wine writer. She has worked in Champagne, France and interviewed chefs de caves and families of Houses for international media and airline magazines. For more than a decade she has hosted champagne events, tastings and masterclasses, and she founded the Sunshine Coast Champagne Club. You can follow her on Facebook and Instagram @The Champagne Class.