Coonawarra is a slice of paradise. Its fertile terra rossa soils, laced with that signature rustic haze, have given rise to some of Australia’s most sought-after wines. But this region is more than its celebrated earth and treasured vines.
It’s the crimson sunsets sinking over the limestone coast. It’s the crisp evening air that calls for a roaring open fire as you gaze into the night’s sky for a galaxy of entertainment from above. Yet at its core, its people are the beating heart of this stunning place.
There are countless reasons throughout the year to visit this vinous wonderland, sitting a leisurely five-hour drive from either Melbourne or Adelaide, but I find myself in town for the legendary 43rd Annual Coonawarra Vignerons Cup.
This is no average race day. It’s a pilgrimage of sorts for a diverse range of folk, all bound by a love of fine wine and the need to get their fix of this incredible country spirit.
From the moment the gates opened, it was clear why tickets sold out months in advance – insiders will tell you to act fast in October and November of the previous year, not to mention booking the highly sought-after accommodation options. With the mercury at a perfect 26 degrees, you couldn’t script it better.
I met folks from Perth, Cairns, Sydney, Melbourne, Tasmania and every corner of the country, mingling with locals whose lifelines are etched into the region. Some were here for the horses, some for the wine, others for the sheer occasion and never ventured near the track. But we all agreed on one thing – the atmosphere was electric.
Find a better value day out, and for $250 all inclusive, I hasten to guess you won’t. A buffet lunch and a seven-and-a-half-hour drinks package, not to mention snacks and afternoon tea, headline the catering package in the platinum VIP marquee. If this were Flemington, you’d be paying twice as much.
Scouring the room, my eye caught the real treasure – a bar stocked with dozens of wines. Not the one token red, one white affair you find at most events, but a full spectrum of varieties and vintages, ready to be plucked and shared around the table. And share we did, with murmurs of delight about both the range and the remarkable value of the day.
Feeding 730 guests is no small feat, but the caterers delivered with 36° South beef, roasted vegetables, and vibrant salads. Choosing what to drink was a happy dilemma: Yalumba, Wynns, Bowen, Patrick, Penley, Redman, St Hugo, Raidis Estate, Parker, Balnaves, Leconfield, Rymill – the list rolled on.
Some bottles were newly released whites, others were non-vintage sparkling reds. There was shiraz and cabernet with a host of other reds as far as the eye could see, but a closer look revealed treasured back vintages from some of the labels that have put this district on the map. No one went thirsty, yet the crowd remained impeccably well-behaved.
No country race day is complete without fashions on the field. With plenty of contenders in the running, some groups even coordinated their outfits in an effort to steal the prize, yet elegance and a focused eye on current trends won out in the end.
The revered Imperial auction always causes a stir and this edition was no different. Eight bottles, each holding six litres of the finest Coonawarra red wine, in a custom-made timber case saw a flurry of excitement and bidding. A few of these went back interstate with a tale to tell, not to mention the most treasured carry-on luggage you’ve ever seen.
Soon enough, it was Cup time. A couple of thousand racegoers lined the track for race seven on the card. Tickets were torn and cheers went up before a quick retreat to the marquee as dessert and savouries made their way around.
Things were only amplifying from this point as the live music cranked up the party vibe, the dance floor was swamped and any number of classic lyrics were belted out before Sweet Caroline closed the show.
At the conclusion of the festivities, buses whisked guests back to the pub for celebrations that stretched well into the night. Despite the day’s events rushing by at the blink of an eye, the bonds forged and the embrace of this community’s spirit will be etched in my memory for some time to come.
Steve Leszczynski is a wine writer, author, wine dinner host and MC. Apart from writing for his website QwineReviews.com, Steve co-authored a book, Grenache – Barossa Grown.