Emerging from my slumber, a chorus of barn swallows pitch their song, creating a serene backdrop to the stunning vista. The landscape, brushed with sunrise yellow, is better than I could have ever imagined.
Peering west, with the French Alps as the ultimate backdrop, rolling picturesque hills are tattooed with vines as far as the eye can see. Dotted on the horizon are towers from neighbouring villages. I give a quiet good morning nod to Barbaresco on the next ridge.
For now, I’m comfortably holed up in a stunning B&B, Casa Caimotta, in the historic Italian village of Neive. Nestled in the Langhe district and more famously known for its Barbaresco neighbour, this sleepy town is the base for my Piedmont wine adventure.
The famed Piedmont region is draped in nebbiolo, the majestic grape that takes its name from ‘nebbia’, or ‘fog’. Thin-skinned and high in acid and tannin, it is best known for its powdery tannins. Aged examples are harmonious, silky and pretty things.
Barolo wines are seen as denser, more muscular, whereas Barbaresco wines are perfumed and detailed. Much of this has to do with the soil structure.
After breakfast, I jump into the car and travel the 25 kilometres to Barolo for a full day of appointments. Barolo is a wine lover’s mecca.
Driving the narrow roads, coiled like ribbons that have been tossed over the hills, I slip through Verduno before La Morra raises its head. Barely a patch of spare dirt, everywhere I look, it seems as though vines are marching off to the horizon. I continually crane my neck at a new point of interest, but the driving here demands attention and those tight bends force you to slow. In hindsight, I realise this is apt for the region – Barolo rewards patience.
I arrive at the Vietti winery, and winemaker Eugenio Palumbo walks me through his exceptional wines. Tasting wines here takes you back in time. They are traditional yet intellectual and precise. Deep in the cellar, bottles lie in situ from the Napoleon era, some 500 years old. Nothing speaks more of history than that.
Vietti rescued the white variety arneis from extinction, as well as timorasso, a gastronomic white, which steals my heart. It commands a delicate textural precision. But there is no mistaking the excellence of the Barolos. Standing on the balcony at the Rocche Costamagna winery, I feel it is the guardian of La Morra, and has been since 1841. Some of the best-value wines in the district, these are wines of honesty and poise, offering Barolo’s gravitas without austerity.
With my belly yearning for sustenance, a quick lunch break at a modest and charming bar hits the spot. I indulge in a classic regional dish, wild boar ragu, with a glass of Barolo for good measure.
Back on the road, and I reach skyward to meet winemaker Giulia Negri. Her vineyard is perched right on the region’s border and at its highest point. Giulia is known as the ‘Queen of Barolo’ and deservedly so. Known for her minimal intervention and long macerations, these are wines of ethereal power.
Next, it’s on to the impressive Paolo Scavino winery. Established in 1921, these wines are a modern and luxurious take. There is a purity and detail here with luminous fruit and polished tannins.
Day two arrives sooner than expected and the mission is Barbaresco. An easy five-kilometre drive from my Neive base is all that’s required for my first appointment, the famed and highly acclaimed Produttori del Barbaresco winery. With a history dating back to the 1950s and the gold standard of co-operatives worldwide, what started with 19 growers has evolved to 53. Such is its stature and repute, only five growers have left in that time.
As impressive as the history is, the classico is an incredible wine. The 2021 is potentially one of the best vintages on record. Despite its A$100 price tag, it shoots for the awfully modest price of €26 at the cellar door. Such is the humility of the co-operative, the growers met to discuss a price increase due to the exceptional quality of the 2021 vintage and it was agreed to raise the price by a mere €2!
If the quality of the classico isn’t enough to excite, the single-vineyard wines are incredible. I am in Barbaresco heaven! Managing director Aldo Vacca organises lunch at a local restaurant, and among other gastronomic delights, including the traditional regional dish vitello tonnato – cold, sliced veal in a creamy savoury tuna and caper infused sauce. Its subtlety and elegance speak of Barbaresco and matches the local wine perfectly.
Recharged and nourished, my afternoon is completed by visiting Marchesi di Gresy – a winery that draws fruit from Barbaresco’s best vineyard, Martinenga. Finesse and elegance encapsulate these meticulous expressions with lifted fruit and delicate tannins.
My final appointment is the easiest – a mere 200-metre walk from my accommodation. I ditch the car and stretch the legs to Castello di Neive, a place steeped in history dating back to 1735 when the castello was constructed. A tour of the infernos, dating back to the 16th and 17th centuries, is jaw-dropping. As I walk in wonder, I get the sense that time bends here.
The Barbaresco classico draws 50 per cent fruit from the Santa Stefano vineyard and is regarded as the best in the Neive commune. For all its majesty, the riserva (reserve) is all Santo Stefano fruit and simply sublime. The ultimate act of hospitality is bestowed on me as winemaker Claudio Roggero opens a riserva 1999, his first vintage at the castello. Concentration and depth walk hand in hand with this structured treasure, yet after 25-plus years, the vibrant acidity brings energy and finesse.
From strangers to lifelong friends, we break bread over a couple of glasses – the union of history, craftsmanship and longevity captured completely.
*Reviews from all wines tasted can be accessed at QwineReviews.com
Steve Leszczynski is a wine writer, author, wine dinner host and MC. Apart from writing for his website QwineReviews.com, Steve co-authored a book, Grenache – Barossa Grown.