Rolling hills ripple across the landscape, winding roads weave through a patchwork of vineyards and farmland and eucalyptus trees stretch as far as the eye can see. Altitude is the defining influence here, with vineyards planted between 300 and 800 metres above sea level, the Macedon Ranges possesses a freshness that immediately distinguishes it from many of Australia’s wine regions.
Crisp mountain air brushes across your face, while picturesque townships and cellar doors dot the countryside. It’s a region of remarkable rustic beauty and quiet confidence, where cool-climate wines excel.
Located just an hour from Melbourne’s CBD and around 40 minutes from Melbourne Airport, the Macedon Ranges is among the most accessible wine regions in Victoria. Yet despite its proximity to the city, it feels a world away.
The region’s climate is marked by cold winters, mild summers and long growing seasons that allow grapes to ripen slowly while retaining natural acidity and finesse. Ancient volcanic soils, mixed with granite, clay and patches of Cambrian soil to the north, provide excellent structure and complexity to the wines. Chardonnay and pinot noir are the region’s undisputed stars, although adventurous producers continue to prove there is plenty more to discover.
The first stop on this Macedon Ranges day trip was Lyons Will Estate. The view from the cellar door is postcard material. Expansive glass windows frame the vineyard in all its glory, creating a seamless connection between the tasting room and the vines beyond. Husband and wife duo Oliver Rapson and Renata Morello have built a deserved reputation for exceptional riesling, chardonnay and pinot noir, but it is their gamay that continually captures my attention.
As I’ve said a few times before, I believe they produce the best gamay in Australia. Silky, seductive and wonderfully expressive, it bursts with buoyant blue and purple fruits while maintaining the freshness and vitality that make the variety so compelling.
Their single vineyard pinot noirs have also come along in leaps and bounds in recent years. Among them, The Greys secures my favour, offering a savoury-driven profile with impressive depth and poise.
More recently, Lyons Will has begun sourcing the white variety picpoul from a nearby grower, and this is one wine where you’ll want to ensure your glass is topped up just a little more. Crisp and vibrant, it delivers bright lemon notes, a minerally thread and a refreshingly moreish character. Put simply, it’s damn delicious.
After a morning of tasting, insightful conversations and plenty of laughs, the Lancefield Hotel provides a lunch stop sure to satisfy any hunger. The nostalgia of an old-school country pub remains firmly intact, yet it is complemented by a contemporary menu and an excellent selection of local wines. While the wine list beckoned, a cold beer was exactly what I needed to refresh the palate. It proved the perfect companion to beef cheeks that fell apart effortlessly at the touch of a fork, accompanied by creamy mashed potato.
Crawl around the corner for a donut and vanilla slice chaser at the bakery where the charm of country hospitality rears its head once more.
Curly Flat is the next essential stop and remains one of the most revered wineries in the district. Established in the early 1990s, it is widely regarded as one of the pioneering estates that helped put Macedon Ranges firmly on Australia’s fine wine map.
Owner Jeni Kolkka was kind enough to give us a couple of hours of her time as we toured the winery and explored the current releases. The cellar door itself adds greatly to the experience. Housed within a renovated 1800s home, it is comfortable, cosy and full of character. Two fireplaces warm the soul while guests relax in a setting that feels distinctly colonial and wonderfully welcoming.
Chardonnay and pinot noir are the cornerstones of the Curly Flat portfolio. A few years ago, pinot noir fruit parcels began to be separated, leading to the introduction of two single-vineyard expressions. The Western Pinot Noir offers delightful fragrance and a leaner, more finely etched frame, while the Central Pinot Noir is more robust, generous and powerful.
The appointment of highly regarded consultant winemaker Steve Flamsteed has further elevated the wines. His influence is already apparent and with the forthcoming release of the new Reserve Pinot Noir, there is every reason for enthusiasts to keep a close eye on what lies ahead.
Of course, the beauty of the Macedon Ranges extends well beyond its headline producers. The region is teeming with small wineries producing wines of authenticity and character.
Lane’s End deserves a place firmly on your radar, producing wines that lean into elegance, finesse and sheer drinkability. Meanwhile, chardonnay lovers should make time for Wilimee Wines. Their layered and focused expression, sourced from vineyards sitting around 600 metres above sea level, demands your full attention. It is a wine that encourages you to slow down, lean in and embrace every drop.
Steve Leszczynski is a wine writer, author, wine dinner host and MC. Apart from writing for his website QwineReviews.com, Steve co-authored a book, Grenache – Barossa Grown.