It’s known as ‘The Silent City’. And any lost soul can embrace the serenity while wandering the labyrinth of winding alleyways with soaring yellow-ochre limestone walls.
With no tourist cars allowed and a limited number of emergency and residents’ vehicles, the ‘sounds of silence’ linger throughout much of Mdina in the centre of the main island of Malta.
Sitting atop one of the country’s highest hills, at 200 metres above sea level, one of Europe’s finest walled cities has been attacked, invaded and conquered over and over, since first being inhabited and fortified by the Phoenicians in 700BC. Foreign influences over the millennia – among them, the Carthaginians, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, Spanish, French and British – have all helped to shape Malta’s art, music, cuisine, architecture and society in some way.
Mdina was the capital when the Order of Knights of St John (Knights Hospitaller) took possession of the Maltese islands in November 1530. After these knights won the Great Siege of Malta against the Ottoman Empire in 1565, and in fear of further attacks, it was decided to build a new fortified city in the east on a tongue of land between two natural harbours. A year after the siege, Grand Master Jean Parisot de la Valette laid the cornerstone for the new city of Valetta that became the capital in 1571.
And for a time afterwards, Mdina, the centre of nobility and religion, became a ghost town, leading to The Silent City moniker.
But today, history comes to life in this enchanting city, amplified by the meticulously maintained Baroque architecture – from St Paul’s Cathedral (built between 1697 and 1702) to the Main Gate featured in TV’s Game of Thrones as the original King’s Landing) and the many palaces that today serve as private homes. There are even hints of its medieval past in building foundations and Mdina’s street pattern.
As visitors cross the bridge and look down on the lush lawn and topiary trees of the restored Mdina Ditch Gardens in the former moat, they leave the 21st century far behind.
The monumental Main Gate was built in 1724 as part of Grand Master Antoine de Vilhena’s re-organisation of the city’s entrance. It replaced an old, medieval entry on the same rampart (walled up but still visible to the right of the new entrance) that was serviced by a drawbridge.
Step through into the small St Publius Square, named after the governor of the island when St Paul was shipwrecked on the archipelago in 60AD.
Here, visitors find their first modern attractions that evoke the chequered and fascinating history: the Mdina Dungeons Museum (including re-created torture chambers) and the Natural History Museum, housed inside and beneath Palazzo Vilhena.
Palazzo Vilhena, itself, is considered one of the finest examples of Parisian Baroque architecture in Malta today. It was the Magisterial Palace and residence of the Grand Master – part of the rebuilding of the city, carried out in the years after the 1693 earthquake – and has served many roles, including as a hospital and sanitorium.
Before venturing any further into history from this square, some colourful baubles are likely to catch the eye.
Malta’s first glassmaking company, Mdina Glass, was established in 1968. But it wasn’t until the early 2000s – under the guidance of the Said family – that the business started capturing the home décor market, using new materials and techniques to produce its ever-growing range.
Time ticks by while marvelling at quirky statues, bespoke vases, lamps and chic décor ornaments in the showroom or searching through matching earring-and-necklace sets that beg to be taken home as gifts and souvenirs.
Once again outside, meander the longest street in the centre of the town, Triq il-Villegaignon, to find Triq San Pawl with its majestic St Paul’s Cathedral, small square and neighbouring Mdina Cathedral Museum.
A church has existed on this site since the 12th century, but a decision to replace the medieval Romanesque structure was made towards the end of the 17th century. The 1693 earthquake postponed renovations, but the metropolitan cathedral was finally completed in 1704 – now filled with monuments and other notable works of art, including canvases by Mattia Preti.
Described as a Baroque masterpiece, the cathedral’s dome and belfries dominate the Mdina skyline.
Nearby lies a hidden gem. The Carmelite Priory is the only priory in Malta open to the public. Carmelite friars live the simple traditions of prayer and service within the walls of the 17th-century architecture, with its impressive array of paintings and sculptures. Among the riches is the Baroque painting The Annunciation by Stefano Erardi (1677) that takes pride of place above the main altar.
When lunchtime beckons, try to score a table above the surrounding wall at Fontanella Tea Garden to make the most of the glorious view across a patchwork of agricultural land and neighbouring towns.
Malta’s close ties with Italy can be fully understood after tasting the piping hot crust and generous toppings of the Maltija pizza (tomato sauce, mozzarella, caponata, capers, olives, Maltese sausage, sundried tomatoes, onions and peppered cheese – gbejna). Divine!
But cake is what the tearooms are renowned for in Malta, and a slice of signature chocolate, hazelnut and caramel cake will go down a treat. You may need to wait for a seat, downstairs or upstairs, but the experience is well worth lining up for.
At nearby Bastion Square, drink in the panoramas of the surrounding countryside – even better with a gelato in hand from Fior di Latte artisanal gelateria. This historic square is part of Mdina’s fortifications, but as well as the impressive buildings, pay attention to the details: the vibrantly coloured shutters, grand doors and quirky door knockers. Among them is Mdina’s Insta-famous ‘The Blue Door’. Located on the same alleyway as Coogi’s Restaurant and Tea Garden, the cornflour blue door, its wall and circular window are surrounded by a pink/purple bougainvillea creeper for an eye-catching pop of colour.
If you’re seeking a cool refuge, especially on a hot day, rest awhile in the Medieval Tavern on Mesquita Square (a Game of Thrones shooting location for Little Finger’s brothel in King’s Landing). Set in a medieval house dating to the 13th century, the tavern serves typical Maltese meals, homemade cakes, beverages including cocktails and light snacks.
It’s all part of The Silent City’s rich tapestry of history that sounds just the ticket for a welcome change of pace from Valletta’s northern summer crowds.
From Valletta Bus Terminal, hop on the 50, 51, 52, 53 or 56 line. But 53 is best, taking visitors to Rabat in about 30 minutes, with an easy five-minute walk to Mdina’s Main Gate.