As we pull off the highway and into the back streets of Gympie, my 11-year-old son is practically bouncing in his seat. He has been gearing up all week for this experience and I know it won’t disappoint. How can it when there is a century-old steam train involved?
The rain and cold early morning air cannot dampen our spirits because we are about to journey along the history-laden track between the old gold mining town and the quaint township of Amamoor.
As I park the car, we notice a small group of people huddling under the ornate pagoda-style awning of the heritage-listed Gympie Station.
“The rain might be keeping people away,” my son muses.
It turns out this could not be further from the truth.
Walking through the ticket office and out onto the bustling platform, we realise that no one has been deterred by the wet weather either. That is the quaint charm of the Mary Valley Rattler – it appeals to people of all ages and interests.
From train enthusiasts to international tourists and southeast Queensland locals, just like us, the majestic red train provides hours of joy.
We can’t help but feel a sense of excitement and nostalgia as it rolls out from the station to the sound of a whistle, horn tooting and engine puffing.
We settle in for the 24-kilometre Classic Rattler Run to Amamoor, and it is quite a comfortable journey. That is, once we get used to the bumps and rattles (no doubt, how the dear old train gets her name) as we wind our way along the 130-year-old track.
The track was constructed in response to the region’s gold rush all those years ago. People needed a way to transport materials in and out of the area, and so the campaign for rail began.
It was in the late 1800s when Brisbane and Maryborough began pushing to become Gympie’s main export port, and after nearly ten years of political wrangling, Maryborough came out on top. In 1881, the first railway to link Gympie to the port opened and a station was built at the end of the Mary Valley track.
When the gold tapered off, and the Gympie and Mary Valley region grew through farming, dairying and timber, the rail network continued to play its part. By the early 1900s, pressure mounted for the line to extend through to Brooloo (located 40 kilometres south of Gympie), and so, work began, with the Brooloo terminus opening in 1915. The line spurred land subdivisions near rail stops, opening up farmland. New townships followed, including Kandanga, Imbil, Amamoor and Dagun.
But as always, development took over and in 1989, a new railway line was built bypassing Gympie, and by the mid-1990s, regular passenger services between the town and the Valley ceased operation.
In response, locals and rail enthusiasts formed the Mary Valley Heritage Railway to revive the line for tourism purposes. The Rattler was launched in 1998, drawing about 33,000 visitors each year until track upgrades halted services in 2012. Then, after six years, the tourist service resumed on the back of the ‘no dam’ decision, with funding from the State Government to fund the revitalisation of the heritage train service and rebuild tourism to Mary Valley.
Since 2018, the Rattler has welcomed more than 175,000 people on board its steam, diesel and railmotor services between Gympie and Amamoor.
Today, the importance of remembering this historical period is evident in every Mary Valley Rattler moment, from the information shared aboard to the old-fashioned, quality service.
Our host for the morning is Ralph, a retired Gympie local, who expertly makes his way through the club car, serving beverages and chatting with the VIP guests. He ensures we are cared for – newspapers at the ready, bottled water, cheese platters and plenty of friendly chit-chat.
“I’ve been volunteering for six years,” Ralph tells us. “I’m not a train man in particular, but I’m a born and bred local. I enjoy talking to the visitors.” Almost all of the staff who make the Rattler run are volunteers – from the train driver to the guest experience team.
With the rain lightly pattering down, we choose to keep our glass window pulled down, but can still make out the pretty green scenery; cows and horses dotting the hills. We cross under old wooden structures and make our way across Deep Creek (people still pan for gold there), steam billowing past our windows.
My son’s eyes light up as we pass through tunnels and across the ‘muddy Mary’, the soundtrack of the steam engine and its horn a constant in the background. He remarks that it’s like being in the middle of the scenic UK countryside, aboard the Hogwarts Express.
The journey south is downhill and the train only reaches a speed of around 30 kilometres per hour. We sit back in the comfortable leather seats of carriage 1130, grazing on our cheese platters. The Club Car was built at Ipswich in 1925 as a first-class Pullman sitter/sleeper with curtained berths down each side and a central aisle. When it arrived at the Mary Valley Heritage Railway, all that could be salvaged was the under-frame and bogies. Repaired and refurbished, the carriage was then fitted with a new superstructure and rebuilt in the workshop.
The locomotive itself – number 967 – also has an interesting history. The C17 class was built by Walkers Limited of Maryborough in 1950 and represents the later evolution of Queensland Railways’ fleet. Designed to handle both passenger and mixed goods services on branch lines, the C17s were reliable workhorses that were the backbone of regional rail operations for decades. Today, 967 is preserved in operational condition, continuing to showcase Queensland’s steam engineering heritage through services, such as the Mary Valley Rattler.
The trip itself also includes quirky historical elements. For example, the staff reenact the compulsory ‘stop to seek permission’ routine, which dates back to the gold rush years, enabling trains to safely proceed to the next section of the line.
Another highlight of the trip is the short visit in Amamoor, where passengers gather along the railway line to watch the loco turn around on the restored turntable to begin its journey home.
On our return trip, we take in the scenery and fresh air from the back balcony. From here, we can truly experience the beauty of the valley, the wind blowing against our faces. Residents along the track wave – children excitedly jumping up and down from their back gardens. It says a lot about the love people have for the Rattler. Many of these residents probably watch it pass by at least once a week, and yet here they are, filled with enthusiasm.
There is certainly something special about this old train, and it is easy to imagine her steaming along these tracks all those years ago – the pride of the region.
As we roll back into Gympie station, our smiles say it all. The VIP guests are escorted to the Rusty Rails Café for lunch, as other passengers disembark from the traditional carriages. Even the café, once home to the Railway Refreshment Rooms, is reminiscent of the early 1900s. Paintings hang on the whitewashed timber walls and historic items are on display.
There is no escaping the role this grand station and its trains played in Queensland’s rich history.
The experience
The Classic Rattler Run departs Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday from Gympie to Amamoor (return). Bench seating starts at $37 for children and is $69 for adults. For those who don’t want to leave their pooch at home, there is a pet-friendly carriage. Tickets are the same price as the regular experience, but are only available on Wednesday and Saturday.
The VIP experience in carriage 1130 costs $159 per person and includes pre-boarding, local cheese plate, a meet and greet with the drivers, two-course lunch and a special souvenir to remember your journey. The VIP booth experience is also $159, including a cheese plate, beverage, lunch and souvenir.
The Silver Bullet railmotor high tea experience is available on Friday and is a return trip from Gympie to Dagun. Tickets are $119.
To view all of the Mary Valley Rattler’s journeys, including special events, visit maryvalleyrattler.com.au.